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mindshare
Starting Member
Canada
17 Posts |
 Posted - 23/10/2009 : 07:34:29 AM
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I am almost finished my Bedini
I finished the Daftman school girl design.
Now I am attempting to put the coil together.
I know I am to use welding rods for the core, but what if I use a ferrite core? And I was to wind directly onto the ferrite cylinder I got?
I will be using Neo magnets for the rotor part, that I stuck onto a hard drive motor.
I read a lot about the core can be a little too magnetic thus screwing up the spinning rotor magnets. Thus I was going to try a ferrite core. Anything to say about that?
I am also wondering about the winding of the 22 and 26 gauge wires I will be bifilaring!!!! Do I need to sand off the coating or do I just tin it using solder? I am finding that the solder does not stick too well to the magnetic wire. What can I do to make it stick better. And would using silver solder be OK? Or should I get the 50/50 kind?
Does the length of the coil make a difference. To get 1000 winding, I was thinking of making a shorter coil (thus giving me more windings)
i.e. </////////////> compared to </////>
I will be posting a video and pics later. Kinda late right now. Just thought I would get my question in.
Thanks for the help and thanks for the site!
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vesperhbt
Advanced Member
USA
445 Posts |
Posted - 23/10/2009 : 12:32:21 PM
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For the mag wire to work correctly it has a very strong coating placed on it the color part and the primer part ( on new wire) From what you are describing it is just that you may not be heating the wire end enough. I recommend that you use a stick lighter or a very small butane torch to heat the end of the wire thus burning off both layers of the coating. then tin the end at the same time.
As for the coils I have built a new mechine to make mine I am testing your question tomorrow I have some wire and I think I can get your core material from a local supplier. I will let you know If it makes a difference.
Hope this helped a little
Sincerely
vesperhbt |
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vesperhbt
Advanced Member
USA
445 Posts |
Posted - 23/10/2009 : 12:35:43 PM
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Silver solder will work okay but the flux is very important for the proper adhesion to the wire. I would recommend the 50/50 with acid core (flux core). That works the best I feel.
Sincerely
vesperhbt |
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mindshare
Starting Member
Canada
17 Posts |
Posted - 23/10/2009 : 10:43:32 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I will try all your suggestions.
Concerning the Daftman school girl design... how important is it to solder the wires onto the pins of the diagram? Can I just wrap them around the pins? This is for the sole purpose of making sure that parts can be replaced if needed easily.
By the way, no brass pins around, so I substituted brass screws. Is this a reason I should be soldering the wires onto the screws, because of less surface due to the screw part?
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Edited by - mindshare on 23/10/2009 10:49:54 PM |
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comwarrior
Moderator
United Kingdom
477 Posts |
Posted - 23/10/2009 : 11:26:02 PM
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you don't need to solder to the pins, however, you may encounter conduction problems if their not solderd...
Your coil, ferrite core is supposed to work better than rods... however, i havn't tried it...
Lenght of core is important, by lenght i'm hoping you mean from the end closest to the rotor and the far end away from the rotor.
the longer it is, the more windings you get closest to the core the stronger the magnetic field you get for the same amount of power... As for direct winding, i havn't done it myself, but i think the answer is yes
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Generator Systems Moderator
"Energy can not be created nor distroyed, it can only be changed into other forms" - so lets do some changing!
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http://www.youtube.com/user/comwarrior69 |
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vesperhbt
Advanced Member
USA
445 Posts |
Posted - 24/10/2009 : 03:51:55 AM
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Well I did a test today using a ferrite core and I did see a gain in the way the motor operates I am compiling data at the moment so I will get it all to you soon. But it was defiantly the way to go, I feel
As for the pins verses screws it does not matter. the best thing to keep in mind about this is to take a magnet with you if the nails stick put them back on the shelf.. if they don't take them home. in other words they could be aluminum nails or other non magnetic metal..This holds true for all the parts you build with. I have found a great bearing supplier for bearings but they are not cheep but they hold up for the life of the motor and will not have mag dead zones or flat spots causing drag.
It is important to keep in mind that all the parts except core items be non magnetic so that you can receive all your power into the rotation of your motor. If you are using a flywheel design that weight is very important as well... how you orient your mags to the field with the coil is very important as well.
the windings should be at the least 2 wrappings to the core I use a 4 wire system but have just made a 6 wire system coil for testing.
Hope that helps
sincerely
vesperhbt
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teep
Forum Admin
United Kingdom
347 Posts |
Posted - 24/10/2009 : 10:38:34 AM
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If you don’t want to solder the connections, then you can use your screws with 2 small washers and clamp your connections together between the 2 washers please see diagram.
Also take into consideration what vesperhbt says about the stick lighter to remove any coating on the ends of your coil wires.
Yours theDaftman TEEP forums administrator.
See my videos on YouTube.
http://uk.youtube.com/theDaftman |
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mindshare
Starting Member
Canada
17 Posts |
Posted - 24/10/2009 : 6:49:09 PM
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| Amazing thanks. Those pictures are great to look at for clarity. |
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vesperhbt
Advanced Member
USA
445 Posts |
Posted - 25/10/2009 : 10:42:04 PM
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Yes great diagram that says it all.
O just to let every one know if you do make your connections with the mag wire or if you break one during the proses you can solder them back together as the Teep shows and then coat the wire with fingernail polish for the insulator this way you can eliminate bumps and short outs
Fingernail polish:
1. also great if you scrape the wire as well. some times in reclaiming wire the outside is scraped up this is a cheep and easy fix for that as well.
2. tight wire connections to prevent shorts and hot-spots with close connections as well from IC chips and such.
3. a very small dot for holding face mount parts to boards before soldering (let dry over night before soldering).
well there is more but you get the idea....
Sincerely,
vesperhbt |
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mindshare
Starting Member
Canada
17 Posts |
Posted - 25/10/2009 : 10:52:29 PM
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Doesn't#65279; the coils, run and trigger have to be together wound? Or can you use them separately?
As I am looking at the Daftman diagram, I am seeing the you could just buy separate coils, 26 and 22 gauge and leave them on their own spool. Wire them onto the bedini circuit and now you could put the trigger coil next to power coil, or across from each other.
Would this work? I find winding the coil very fustrating and messy. One slip and you drop the coil, wires go loose and you end up redoing 10 feet of winding only to have it happen again. I don't have a spool to wind onto (until I wind my first coil, then I'll have two spools to work with but the hole in the middle is too large for the screw or ferrite core I am using)
I have been using tape in between some windings (got smarter!)
But man is this crazy without a winding jig or machine.
Thus my lazyness, or is it ingenuity?, I am wondering if the two coils really do have to be wound together or could one use them separately, just have to make sure they are both pointing at your rotor!? |
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vesperhbt
Advanced Member
USA
445 Posts |
Posted - 28/10/2009 : 10:18:27 AM
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Okay here is a very simple coiling device and bobbin you can make for very little money and it will work for a very long time. I used this before I made my coil machine.
Parts you will need:
1. Drill (can get them cheep from the pawn shops or resale)
2. Clamp (large enough to clamp drill in place to board or bench) (vice or C-clamp works great).
3. PVC ½” Get a scrap if you can a full length is 10’ that is a lot of coils.
4. 2 Reducer end cap 1.5” to .5” for each spool / bobbin.( IE-- used to reduce the 1 ½” pipe to except the ½” pipe)
5. PVC glue and primer
6. Brass Pins / aluminum nails.
7. 8” of all-thread and 4 nuts with 2 washers (sized for the drill chuck and the nuts to fit snug in the ½” PVC pipe) small gaps can be spaced with electrical tape for a good fit, just wrapped around the nuts when finished.
8. Electrical tape
9. 220 grit sand paper.
10. 1 ½” closed screw eye.
11. A sliding dimmer switch that can plug into your drill and the home power. ( pre-made are available for lamps they work great)
12. Hacksaw or Dermal tool with cutter.
13. Needle nose pliers
14. soldering iron
15. Stick lighter ( or Bick / Zippo)
16. ( optional ) Heat gun
17. ( optional ) 1.75 dim wiring heat shrink.
Okay now we have the parts let’s get started.
1. Take your drill clamp it to your working area.
2. Chuck in the all-thread tight
3. Take one nut run it down the all-thread almost to the chuck of the drill.
4. Add a washer then the next nut tighten them angst each other.
5. Run the next nut to about 1.5” from the last nut. Tape in place on each side so it won’t move up or down.
6. Have your last nut and washer ready for the final assembly.
Your winder is ready now for the spool/ bobbin.
1. First cut your ½” PVC to 1.5” (1 ½”) how ever many you will need for all your coils.
2. Take the end cap / reducer and cut the bulk of the material off so that it is .25” ( ¼”) thick and flat on one end. (dimension of cut part is 1.5x . 25” ).
3. Now sand the ends to take off any rough spots or burrs.
4. On an edges take the brass pins and holding them with the pliers heat them with your iron until they will press into the edge of the PVC end cap / reducer. You will need 2 for each winding you are using a start and end for your coil. ( IE—for a bi coil you would need 4 pins ETC.)
5. Now with the pins out on the end cap glue the ends to your pipe and the bobbin is done.
Now for the fun part winding:
1. Plug in your drill to the dimming switch and give it a play. ( if your drill does not have a manual stay button for the ON tape the trigger in the ON position)
2. Now take your bobbin and slide it on the rod and over the nut to the washer take the next washer and slide it to the other end of the bobbin
3. Now spin down the last nut to the washer and finger tight then just a bit with the wrench ( DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN)
Okay your ready give it a spin “see it works”.
1. Now your wire spools can go about 24” away from your coil and vertical on a nail or screw just to hold them in place
2. Screw in your screw eye to your working area mounting board about 6” away from the wire spools thread all wires through the eye and to your coil. (to keep the wire from back spinning just wrap it with 2 or 3 rubber bands)
3. Take one end of your wires and using the lighter burn off the coating on the wire and solder to the start pin for each wrapping of your coil.
4. Run it down the inside edge of the coil and place a vertical piece of tape to hold it in place for your first few windings.
Start winding and guide this with your hand and go slow at first use your dimmer for the speed control. Your first 2 windings are the road map for the rest of the coil. After 3 or 4 windings remove the vertical tape from the edge of the bobbin and keep spooling to about 500 turns.
( To figure the amount of turns make a cam from another washer and get a dollar store calculator and set it so that the cam will press the = button each time the shaft rotates) now just enter 1 + 1 and you are ready to start counting your turns ( not going into this part you can figure it out I’m sure)
After the 500 or so cut and burn and solder to the end pins on your bobbin.
(optional) run some tape over the coil to protect it. I use the heat shrink at this point to make them look really nice.
Your core is up to you welding rods Lincon R60’s work great. Cut to length and tap in tight supper glue each end.
Other cores too can be used see my other posts for more information or just email me.
Well there you have it. I hope this helps you make better coils.
Sincerely,
vesperhbt
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Bedini - Making the coil details
