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JustAnElectrician
Advanced Member
 USA
265 Posts |
Posted - 30/11/2008 : 7:56:12 PM
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more info under Solid State Bedini, thx Lidmotor and theremart.
Here is what I hope to do:
INVENTORY:
1- IRO (Imhotep Radiant Oscillator) in Peak Working Condition*! 1- 6 to 12 V "Power Wheels" electric toy car motor for discharging batteries 1- 12 V halogen automotive headlight for discharging batteries 13- 12 V, 18 AH Sealed Power brand batteries; most are right around 12.5 to 12.7 V but one was under 10 V and is now in use on the IRO charge side. 3- 12 V automotive tail lamp bulbs for discharging batteries NO ACCESS TO BATTERY ANALYZER :(
WHAT I NEED FROM YOU:
Help with figuring out a testing protocol! Including which batteries to select for driver and discharge set, whether to use and charge single or multiple batteries and discharge levels.
PROPOSED PROTOCOL:
Starting with a fully charged drive battery and 1 or more fully charged cycle batteries, discharge baselines are established using motor and/or bulbs. I'm thinking of a huge parallel circuit, but I'm aware that too fast of a discharge rate is not proper testing procedure and possibly bad for the batteries. Charging cycle next, but I need to decide on parallel, series or single charging. My IRO is kicking out good spikes, my digital VOM reads overload on the 200V scale with no battery connected to the output, so that is a plus. Charged back to baseline, then discharged again, recording the data all along. I have seen 12:1 charge:drive ratios, with a Bedini SSG, but it seems the IRO is much more efficient in back-spike production. I'll be using UNCONDITIONED BATTERIES but they will be getting conditioned as the test procedes.
OUTLINE of PROCEDURE:
A. Test the 13 batteries, select 5 that match and use one as a driver and 4 to cycle 1. Determine "fully discharged" level and whether it is in loaded or unloaded condition. B. BASELINE discharge the 4 cycle batteries, record cycle time(s). C. RECHARGE and record time, and all voltages of drive and cycle batteries. 1. This is the start of the actual test, as the drive battery is providing all the power for the cycle batteries for valid comparisons of IRO efficiency and C.O.P. numbers.
D. DISCHARGE and record time, and all voltages of drive and cycle batteries.
E. REPEAT until pre-determined "fully discharged" level is reached on drive battery. 1. My IRO runs all the way down to 6.00 V so I propose this as "Full Discharge".
F. DISCHARGE and record time, all voltages of cycle batteries.
G. Crunch the Numbers! Compare run time of drive battery to total run time of charge batteries.
FOLLOW UP: I'm thinking now I could use 2 of the "dead" charge batteries and series them to charge the "drive" battery and the remaining charge batteries, see how long that takes... :) If I can achieve anywhere near a 4:1 charge ratio or more I think I will be convinced. This little pocket device ROCKS! Let's just see how hard it rocks. (Also posted @ Imhotep's Forum)
...just an Electrician! Since 1985...
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theremart
Advanced Member

154 Posts |
Posted - 01/12/2008 : 8:46:50 PM
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Suggestions.
1. Use new batteries else you will be spending MONTHS bringing the batteries up to a conditioned state. If you use old batteries then you have many variables that can hinder a good test.
2. Suggest using Interstate batteries. ( expensive but from what I understand you could use the small ones found at home depo )
3. Use the C20 rate on the batteries, both on discharge and charge.
4. Don't allow batteries to go under 12.4 V under load.
It is very hard to know what an energizer can or cannot do until you have done the hard work of charging / load testings for months. My goal has been to try to get the 3 batteries charged from 1 as Bedini has claimed is possible.
Looks like you have setup an interesting test, I have not done a good test yet as I have not had the $ to sink into brand new batteries. This has been a hobby of mine,
See my playground here --> www.youtube.com/marthale7 |
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JustAnElectrician
Advanced Member

USA
265 Posts |
Posted - 04/12/2008 : 3:22:52 PM
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thanks alot Mart! seems like some of my assumptions were way off, so you have saved me lots of time :D I will check Inhotep's IFAQ and see if there is more data there. 1 question, I presume C20 is a 20% amp-hour discharge rate, but how do I recharge at that rate with an IRO??? I assume you just mean discharge?
...just an Electrician! Since 1985... |
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JustAnElectrician
Advanced Member

USA
265 Posts |
Posted - 25/01/2009 : 11:21:45 AM
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quote: Originally posted by theremart
Suggestions.
1. Use new batteries else you will be spending MONTHS bringing the batteries up to a conditioned state. If you use old batteries then you have many variables that can hinder a good test.
2. Suggest using Interstate batteries. ( expensive but from what I understand you could use the small ones found at home depo )***
3. Use the C20 rate on the batteries, both on discharge and charge.
4. Don't allow batteries to go under 12.4 V under load.
It is very hard to know what an energizer can or cannot do until you have done the hard work of charging / load testings for months. My goal has been to try to get the 3 batteries charged from 1 as Bedini has claimed is possible.
Looks like you have setup an interesting test, I have not done a good test yet as I have not had the $ to sink into brand new batteries. This has been a hobby of mine,
See my playground here --> www.youtube.com/marthale7
*** Interstate Batteries, I found an Interstate store right here!!! They get BLEMS here for CHEAP! I got a huge (2 actually) Deep Cycle Marine battery for $40 + Tax and core! They also have a very informative brochure about lead acid & gel cells.
...just an Electrician! Since 1985... |
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theremart
Advanced Member

154 Posts |
Posted - 25/01/2009 : 1:14:13 PM
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Wow. is that for new batteries?
I can get used batteries for $20.00 each 6V Golf cart. But they are about 2-4 years old.
See my playground here --> www.youtube.com/marthale7 |
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JustAnElectrician
Advanced Member

USA
265 Posts |
Posted - 25/01/2009 : 7:56:29 PM
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YES!!! Totally new (blemished) batteries. The first one I bought had minor scratches on the lead posts :lol: and the second one had a minor crack in the cell caps... regular car batt's are even cheaper! ($35) I can hook you up possibly or you can find an INTERSTATE dealer close to yourself...
Blems on the popular smaller gel cells are practically non-existant. I asked.
...just an Electrician! Since 1985... |
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JustAnElectrician
Advanced Member

USA
265 Posts |
Posted - 25/01/2009 : 7:57:38 PM
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PS: a small 12V 7 AH battery I priced @ Interstate was $50!!! :eek:
...just an Electrician! Since 1985... |
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