| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| hendo1944 |
Posted - 29/11/2008 : 02:32:59 AM
Came across a self running motor on YouTube. Tried to contact the builder of the model, but he doesn't reply.
http://www.rod45103.com
I am trying to replicate this motor and the wiring is sort of hard to figure out. I am using a small 12v motor with 8 neo magnets. I also use 6 small relay coils which are hooked up to a bridge rectifier at the opposite ends of the + & -. Each rectifier + terminal is joined as well as each - terminal. What suppose to happen is that the motor is started with a battery (12V) and once the revolutions have settled the current that the coils generate should drive the small 12v motor.
Well it is not happening.....I wonder if anyone else has tried to build this motor and had success. I would like to hear from you, as I have studied his video time after time and can't seem to see what I am doing wrong.
hendo1944
Hendo1944
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| 25 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| hendo1944 |
Posted - 09/10/2009 : 04:39:58 AM
Thank you for that.....I looked it up!
To take a practical example, an electric motor running under no load
uses very little power. If the motor were frictionless and
superconducting, it would use no power. This is because the back emf
opposes the imposed voltage. As the load on the motor increases, the
back emf decreases as must be the case; the motor must be given energy
to produce energy. To see why the back emf decreases under load is
often complicated, having to do with the angle between coils in the
motor and the rotating magnetic field which is driving the coils.
________________________
quote:
Originally posted by comwarrior
quote:
Originally posted by hendo1944
I know that when a magnet passes through a coil it produces a negative charge that we call BEMF
Incorrect, BEMF is caused by abruptly shutting of the power to a coil.
FEMF (Forward EMF) seems to be caused by abruptly turning on the power to the coil.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Generator Systems Moderator
"Energy can not be created nor distroyed, it can only be changed into other forms" - so lets do some changing!
"Every Action has an equal and opposite re-action" - Why not use the re-action to create an additional action?
95% efficiency, I dare you to do better!
http://www.youtube.com/user/comwarrior69
Hendo1944
View some of my projects at: http://au.youtube.com/hendojohn
"When you're one step ahead of the crowd you're a genius.
When you're two steps ahead, you're a crackpot."
-- Rabbi Shlomo Riskin (Feb. 1998)
|
| comwarrior |
Posted - 08/10/2009 : 6:36:06 PM
quote:
Originally posted by hendo1944
I know that when a magnet passes through a coil it produces a negative charge that we call BEMF
Incorrect, BEMF is caused by abruptly shutting of the power to a coil.
FEMF (Forward EMF) seems to be caused by abruptly turning on the power to the coil.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Generator Systems Moderator
"Energy can not be created nor distroyed, it can only be changed into other forms" - so lets do some changing!
"Every Action has an equal and opposite re-action" - Why not use the re-action to create an additional action?
95% efficiency, I dare you to do better!
http://www.youtube.com/user/comwarrior69 |
| hendo1944 |
Posted - 08/10/2009 : 4:56:01 PM
Well...after trying everything that I could think of, I have managed to capture the BEMF in a series of capacitors and when these are fully charged to 12v I can run my modified Mylow motor on it.
This has made me think of another way of getting very close to getting to unity, I don't think it would produce overunity as the friction of the bearings do take up energy, but it should be getting close.
I am now thinking of building a small pulse generator that would fire the main coil to make the motor spin and when the BEMF charge goes back (because I use a Bi-filar coil), it stops the battery charge and fires the captured BEMF to keep the motor spinning. I am proposing to use a 555 timer and get the unit firing around the 40hz. I estimate that this is a way of getting my motor to use almost no power from the battery, which should last a very long time.
If anyone has any ideas on this I would be very interested in hearing from them.
I have been trying for a long time to get a self running motor model and have not had any success at this stage. I know that when a magnet passes through a coil it produces a negative charge that we call BEMF and it is what is required throughout the universe to make things work, however that negative charge, if it could be captured (which I can) and switch of the positive charge for an instant only to fire the negative charge next, it would save energy loss by 50%.
I hope all this makes sense and the next challenge is building such a device that could do this.
http://s459.photobucket.com/albums/qq313/hendo1944/?action=view¤t=self_runner.flv
___________________
[quote]Originally posted by hendo1944
After wasting heaps of time and effort along with spending money on the Mylow self running magnet motor only to find out it was a fraud from the beginning, I have decided to use the Mylow motor I build and try and make it a self runner using the Bedini circuit.
I have the unit running presently and it is being powered by my Hybrid Newman/Bedini motor through a battery that seems to keep its charge to about 5.85 volts (it is a 12v battery).
My plan is to have the Bifilar coil charge a capacitor or battery with the BEMF, which will keep the motor running. The large 18" aluminium disk has the ceramic magnets glued onto it and the Bifilar coil hangs above the magnets. It presently has been spinning for 2 days and keeps a constant 85rpm. I have attempted a self runner before, without success and I hope I can find a suitable circuit to have this old Mylow motor breath some real life into it. If successful I plan to hook an alternator to the flywheel or maybe glue some Neodinium magnets underneath the plate and have a series of air coils produce a current.
Some others may of build a Mylow replication and may wish to do the same. I am keen to get some feedback.
Hendo1944
View some of my projects at: http://au.youtube.com/hendojohn
"When you're one step ahead of the crowd you're a genius.
When you're two steps ahead, you're a crackpot."
-- Rabbi Shlomo Riskin (Feb. 1998)
|
| magnetman12003 |
Posted - 07/09/2009 : 12:10:03 AM
Hi Guys,
I am now trying to construct something like this. Check out this guys "REVEALED" video also. He just may be near something. Looks interesting enough for me to follow up. I have posted in the GENERAL DISCUSSIONS FORUM also with links.
Here is something I put together but its not overunity by a long shot.
Tom
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| hendo1944 |
Posted - 31/08/2009 : 5:11:29 PM
After doing heaps more research and testing I have managed to keep my modified Mylow motor spinning, on a single 12v battery.
I would say it is early days and I am keen to see it in a few weeks from now. The main circuit is based on the Bedini SG circuit.
As I mentioned before, I am trying to get a free running system and this setup is getting closer to my objective.
My ultimate aim is to build a system that will start simply by a pull cord and keep running. The BEMF that this would produce will be used to power lights in a caravan.
After doing research information on the Lockridge device, out of Germany after the war, I hope to build something like that and would be interested to communicate with anyone that may have information on how to do this. I have searched the Internet, with very little results and have just received the DVD from John Bedini explaining this system. John has detailed information on this and has stated that he would one day build one. The DVD is very informative and I believe that Lockridge has duplicated the system and sold many during the sixties to caravanners in the US. The device outputs 300w which is heaps for lights and even would run a small fridge, so the potential to have a free energy device is a real possibility.
Please visit another interesting site with heaps of schematics:
http://www.fight-4-truth.com/Schematics.html
quote:
Originally posted by hendo1944
After wasting heaps of time and effort along with spending money on the Mylow self running magnet motor only to find out it was a fraud from the beginning, I have decided to use the Mylow motor I build and try and make it a self runner using the Bedini circuit.
I have the unit running presently and it is being powered by my Hybrid Newman/Bedini motor through a battery that seems to keep its charge to about 5.85 volts (it is a 12v battery).
My plan is to have the Bifilar coil charge a capacitor or battery with the BEMF, which will keep the motor running. The large 18" aluminium disk has the ceramic magnets glued onto it and the Bifilar coil hangs above the magnets. It presently has been spinning for 2 days and keeps a constant 85rpm. I have attempted a self runner before, without success and I hope I can find a suitable circuit to have this old Mylow motor breath some real life into it. If successful I plan to hook an alternator to the flywheel or maybe glue some Neodinium magnets underneath the plate and have a series of air coils produce a current.
Some others may of build a Mylow replication and may wish to do the same. I am keen to get some feedback.
http://s459.photobucket.com/albums/qq313/hendo1944/?action=view¤t=self_runner.flv
Hendo1944
View some of my projects at: http://au.youtube.com/hendojohn
"When you're one step ahead of the crowd you're a genius.
When you're two steps ahead, you're a crackpot."
-- Rabbi Shlomo Riskin (Feb. 1998)
Hendo1944
View some of my projects at: http://au.youtube.com/hendojohn
"When you're one step ahead of the crowd you're a genius.
When you're two steps ahead, you're a crackpot."
-- Rabbi Shlomo Riskin (Feb. 1998)
|
| comwarrior |
Posted - 14/08/2009 : 03:52:39 AM
hi alex,
I'm not actually workiing on this... i got my own hands full with my own generator system...
however, it's similar to what i'm on...
Also, the use of full wave bridge rectifiers is highly in-efficient...
I have done a video on using voltage doubling rectifiers.
I have two gen coils for testing, both VDR's are in series...
The question is almost as famous as the PC cooling question 'Suck or Blow'... the question is, voltage or current...
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Energy can not be created nor distroyed, it can only be changed into other forms" - so lets do some changing!
95% efficiency, I dare you to do better!
http://www.youtube.com/user/comwarrior69 |
| OilCanObserver |
Posted - 13/08/2009 : 11:49:28 PM
Hi Comwarrior,
Suggestion when connecting the coils in series & using only one Full Wave Bridge Rectifier (FWBR):
Since each coil will be generating alternating current (ac) or voltage, in order for the voltage to be additive, the Voltage of
each coil must be in phase:
1. Each magnet must cross each coil simultaneously (not staggered.)
2. The orientation (or polarity) of all the magnets must be the same. (All north or all south).
3. Determine the polarity of the coils (the finishing end of a coil should connect to the starting end of the other, etc., assuming
all coils were wound clockwise & if step 2 was implemented - i'm anxious to be corrected on this.)
a. Connect the motor to a battery. (temporarily)
b. Measure the voltage across each coil & record. (voltmeter set to ac)
c. Inter-connect two coils.
d. Measure the voltage across these interconnected coils. If measured value is as desired (additive) continue with the next coil,
otherwise reverse the connection.
Assuming all coils are producing the same value:
If the voltage across the two coils interconnected is doubled = voltage are in phase.(good alignment & correct polarity)
If the voltage across the two coils interconnected is zero = (exactly out of phase - reverse connection of the coils)
Any value in between = magnet/s (or coil/s) must be realigned or re-oriented.
i think step 2 is unnecessary (if magnets were already glued & correctly aligned per step 1) as long as step 3 is followed.
note: out of phase will become subtractive, worst case (@ 180 degrees) ac voltage will cancel out. [it's easier to
"arithmethically" add pulsating dc than to "vectorially" add ac, that's why in my first post i suggested to connect the output (dc)
of each FWBR in series. But the use of individual FWBR per coil causes a lot of loss as claimed by others, imo, the series coil
connection & one FWBR is preferrable.]
i agree with Daftman's more magnets, more coils & a big flywheel, but not on putting a magnet under each coil (sorry daftman). the
magnet under the coil may counteract (or destructive to) with the magnetic flux of the moving magnet, thereby reducing the current
produced.(i could be wrong on this.) per your latest post with the magnet under each coil: imho, the voltage increased due to
the repulsive action, thereby increasing the speed of rotation, hence higher voltage but not the current.
if neo magnets will be used: suggest that additional pairs of neo magnets be installed, one at the outer edge of the flywheel &
the other stationary neo magnet aligned with the coil (alignment = the projected line from the center of the flywheel towards the
center of the coil), & oriented to repel each other (per Dafman's idea). (Sorry if i'm not clear on this, English is not my native
tongue.) though these pairs of extra magnets (as many as the quantity of coils or more/less?) will not contribute in the generation
of ac, but will hopefully counteract the attractive force between the magnet (over each coil) & the core of the coil. if my
assumption is correct per your result, then the voltage will increase & hopefully, also the current.
The following are my suggestions in case the current produced is too low which can not self-run the motor (seen the youtube video
using 1.5v battery):
1. Arrange magnets such that their magnetic flux will not counteract (interfere?) with each other, maybe farther apart?
2. Reconstruct coils using bigger wires with more turns & use core of material similar to or better than the standard generator (or
transformer).
3. Add a capacitor (or LC filter maybe?)
thank you for sharing your experiments with us & i apologize for telling you (saw your post: connect coils in series) what you had
known.
alex |
| OilCanObserver |
Posted - 11/08/2009 : 10:19:58 PM
Hi Hendo1944,
I'm just a newbie & pardon my curiosity. In your original post, it seems that the Full Wave Bridge Rectifiers (FWBR) were connected in parallel. Did you try to connect them in series? In one of your posts you metioned that you're getting 2.39v. It seems to me that it's the output of one FWBR since they are connected in parallel. If they were connected in series it would be (6 X 2.39) = 14.39V. I'm not sure if the set up will be able to provide enough current to drive the motor.
Thank you for sharing your experiment.
Alex |
| comwarrior |
Posted - 06/08/2009 : 5:09:35 PM
i was keeping extreamly quiet abot something posted above...
However, after completing my final experiments i can reveal what i know...
passing two NORTH magnets one at each side of a gen coil as per...
This is called a bucking field generator...
It appears to works off the diferences in the flux fields produced by the two magnets wich quickly alternates the fields producing a nice higher voltage than is normal...
The problem is, i'm getting exceptionally low curent from my coils but nice voltages...
For peoples references... standard real size, 15 X m4 steel rods, 15SWG wire, unsure of number of windes...
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Energy can not be created nor distroyed, it can only be changed into other forms" - so lets do some changing!
95% efficiency, I dare you to do better!
http://www.youtube.com/user/comwarrior69 |
| BiDaDiKuNuKu |
Posted - 27/06/2009 : 6:04:22 PM
hi hendo1944,
just view ur 2 vids on photobucket...very nice m8.
i like ur Newman motor setup...u said its been running since september 2008...thats cool.
so do u switch tha batteries manually??
good re-use of tha so call mylow wheel...keep it up m8
Peace!
V2DAY
http://www.youtube.com/user/BiDaDiKuNuKu
"1 often meets his destiny on tha road he takes 2 avoid it" |
| comwarrior |
Posted - 15/06/2009 : 12:26:45 AM
given the voltages seen in the two vids... i'd say the voils should be placed in series not parallel...
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Energy can not be created nor distroyed, it can only be changed into other forms" - so lets do some changing!
95% efficiency, I dare you to do better!
http://www.youtube.com/user/comwarrior69 |
| hendo1944 |
Posted - 14/06/2009 : 11:23:27 PM
After wasting heaps of time and effort along with spending money on the Mylow self running magnet motor only to find out it was a fraud from the beginning, I have decided to use the Mylow motor I build and try and make it a self runner using the Bedini circuit.
I have the unit running presently and it is being powered by my Hybrid Newman/Bedini motor through a battery that seems to keep its charge to about 5.85 volts (it is a 12v battery).
My plan is to have the Bifilar coil charge a capacitor or battery with the BEMF, which will keep the motor running. The large 18" aluminium disk has the ceramic magnets glued onto it and the Bifilar coil hangs above the magnets. It presently has been spinning for 2 days and keeps a constant 85rpm. I have attempted a self runner before, without success and I hope I can find a suitable circuit to have this old Mylow motor breath some real life into it. If successful I plan to hook an alternator to the flywheel or maybe glue some Neodinium magnets underneath the plate and have a series of air coils produce a current.
Some others may of build a Mylow replication and may wish to do the same. I am keen to get some feedback.
http://s459.photobucket.com/albums/qq313/hendo1944/?action=view¤t=self_runner.flv
Hendo1944
View some of my projects at: http://au.youtube.com/hendojohn
"When you're one step ahead of the crowd you're a genius.
When you're two steps ahead, you're a crackpot."
-- Rabbi Shlomo Riskin (Feb. 1998)
|
| comwarrior |
Posted - 13/06/2009 : 07:30:51 AM
hi guys,
I did a video a while back about building Voltage doubling Rectifiers. It uses two diodes and two capacitors...
if you, like me use schottky diodes then you get between 0.3 and 0.6 volts lost per half wave...
The VDR only works if your using alternating magnetic field generator producing a full AC sine wave...
Using a Full Wave Bridge Rectifiers without thinking about WHY your using them is allways the first stumbling block as to the reason why a self powerd unit does not work...
if you consider you want 12 volts from a FWBR and assuming it's voltage loss is ONLY 1.2 volts... the that straight away is a 10% loss... in fact, common FWBR's have voltage loss's of 2.4 to 2.8 volts PER HALF WAVE... so, infact your loosing 20% TWICE...
BTW, i should point out... a VDR doubles the voltage but halfs the curent... now some people (not mentioning any names) think that because your halfing the current your loosing power... in fact power is measured in watts and is calculated... VOLTS X AMPS = WATTS (power) so basically you still have the same 'output' power regaurdless of what type of rectifier your using... What you are increasing is the efficiency which inturn increase your power...
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Energy can not be created nor distroyed, it can only be changed into other forms" - so lets do some changing!
95% efficiency, I dare you to do better!
http://www.youtube.com/user/comwarrior69 |
| SILO3 |
Posted - 09/06/2009 : 10:33:00 PM
Where can I get those coils.
WIRELESS ENERGY IS THE FUTURE |
| Paul |
Posted - 11/05/2009 : 7:51:38 PM
Hope I am not repeating what someone may have already said, but the bridge diodes can drop as much as 1.4 volts. It might be better to use one schottky diode with drop of .4V or so.
That is, if alternating the NS magnets is considered as well.
Also, a voltage doubler with capacitors could be considered, though there may be other trade-offs. I would think that using more coils & magnets in series might help to increase voltage.
Neo magnets might work if there are no ferrous cores in the coils. Just my thoughts. |
| Pwordchernoir |
Posted - 09/04/2009 : 8:13:18 PM
Hello gentlemen. My own experiments have led me to a conclusion you may be interested in. Instead of using the full wave 4 diode bridge rectifiers that are used, which has large voltage drop each way. The Voltage doubling rectifier may operate better, consisting of two diodes and two caps, voltage loss is lower and output higher.
I hope this is useful. |
| donandsandra |
Posted - 26/01/2009 : 9:17:42 PM
What a great thread with so much information. And Hi everyone!
I have watched this UTUBE video numerous times. He has stated that if he inputs 12vdc to vcr motor he is able to get 51 volts DC out of the unit with the other disk with the other type of magnets.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbF63Gzvtd4 @ 28or29 secs we see the disk with the different type magnets. 12volts in 51volts out that is a great deal with such a small device. that 51 volts with low or no amps could power say a HHO device.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
And thanks again for all the info. Don
|
| rgbargee |
Posted - 26/01/2009 : 1:35:26 PM
if your having another go you might think about using more magnets. as it stands all magnets hit attraction at the same time so the force required to pass the coil is at its greatest. the wind guys in slow wind areas would space the magnets so one has just left the coil one is leaving the coil one is in the centre of a coil and one is entering a coil.i Havent tried it but its the anti cogging fix for a wind turbine that wont start in a slow wind. Just a thought |
| dave1966 |
Posted - 25/01/2009 : 3:19:06 PM
Hi guys
I think i will have another go at this one lol. i had put this project on the back burner. but now i'm going to try again.
Thanks teep: for the rectfication problem and magnet idea, this was a big problem i was having with the cogging effect. i will give these a go.
Thanks JustAnElectrician: for the infomation and link on the forward voltage drops. i was never quite sure what was the correct amounts. lol.
hendo1944, i also tried thicker wire but had same resaults as you, (no extra gain?)
you guys have given me interest back into this project. now all i need to do its get more magnets as i have used them on other projects. I really hate giving up on things but this self running motor had me beat.
i will let you guys know what happens. but i got a few family commitments at the moment but i will start again soon.
Keep up the good work guys
Dave. |
| JustAnElectrician |
Posted - 25/01/2009 : 11:37:08 AM
Cheaper FWBR's likely have the higher voltage drops, but if full rectfication is needed, you could likely build it using Schottky diodes or some other lower-loss type diode. Germanium comes to mind, let's see if I can find that info:
quote:
A diode has a forward voltage drop. That is to say, when current is flowing, the voltage at the anode is always higher than the voltage at the cathode. The actual Forward Voltage Drop varies according to the type of diode. For example:
diode voltage drop
-----------------------
Silicon diode = 0.7v
Schottky diode = 0.3v
Germanium diode = 0.2v
In addition, the voltage drop increases slightly as the current increases so, for example, a silicon rectifier diode might have a forward voltage drop of 1 volt when 1 Amp of current is flowing through it.
the above info was found at a nice online tutorial,
http://www.satcure-focus.com/tutor/page3.htm
check out the whole thing, it has lots of good info!
-Rob
...just an Electrician! Since 1985... |
| teep |
Posted - 25/01/2009 : 05:02:44 AM
This is how I would have set it out with diodes but I would have incorporated a capacitor it is needed to store the energy from the coils and to smooth the power to run the motor more efficiently.
Yours theDaftman TEEP forums administrator.
See my videos on YouTube.
http://uk.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=theDaftman |
| teep |
Posted - 25/01/2009 : 03:50:06 AM
I haven’t tried this one yet, but it maybe something I’m considering incorporating into the new project.
Now this is what it looks like.
Now we all know that opposite magnets attract and the same will repel so if one sets up magnets like in the above diagram in theory it will reduce the cogging effect.
Now hendo1944 and dave1966 have built something similar but with only one flywheel maybe gluing a magnet on the bottom of your coils will work in a similar way.
Just my penny’s worth.
Yes one bridge rectifier will be ok. But I think from my understanding of the Rod5157 on youtube is that when the coils produce power simataniously there is the danger of all the coils reabsorbing the power being generated. So to prevent this from happening one would use a diode or in this case Rod5157 used bridge rectifiers.
Yours theDaftman TEEP forums administrator.
See my videos on YouTube.
http://uk.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=theDaftman |
| hendo1944 |
Posted - 24/01/2009 : 10:56:14 PM
Hi Dave,
Thanks for your info...
Please find attached some recent pictures, I have taken out the metal side plates as you noticed and rewound the coils with 26 swg 75 turns each, hoping that the thicker wire may increase the voltage...but sadly it doesn't seem to make much difference. As all the 6 small coils have an iron core, I tried the neo's , but found them still to strong and the motor refused to turn, hence I used the small ceramic magnets only.
I was interested to read about the bridge rectifier using that much power, and will try to taken them all out and just have one bridge rectifier before the voltage is put into the motor. Someone else has mentioned this before and it may have some merit.
I have not given up on the project just yet and will do more soon. It would be nice to have a complete self running motor, without a battery or capacitor. The small neo's I have may still be to powerful and I will try and get some smaller ones. The ones I use now are 11mm x 5mm.
Thanks again for your feedback and don't give up....it is fascinating to keep learning and trying new things. If it was that simple, everyone would of tried it and what would the challenge be then?
quote:
Originally posted by dave1966
Hi Guys
I have been working on the above project for some time now. but i have NOT been able to get it to self power at all. it allways needs a battery of some sort in line. the longest i could get it to work was for just under one week using it with 1.4 volt watch battery. with a larger battery it would run for many many months. sorry i have no pictures of it.
i have sort of given up on it really.
hendo1944,....I just noticed that with your replication that your relay coils still have the metal plate that runs up the side....i found it works alot better if you take them off, because it still getting attracted with the magnets. its a very small amount i know but its still extra drag that this motor cant cope with.
when i took that metal plate off i was able to use little 10mm x 0.5mm neo disk magnets i could then produce more voltage but amps seemed not to increase (i used a dremal to remove the metal from relays. but go easy if u try this dont get it to hot lol.)
Just a Question:
Can this be wired up WITHOUT a bridge rectifier on each coil. because if im right in thinking that bridge recifiers lose voltage from the coil in the process of converting to DC voltage. (is it 0.7 volt per diode? if thats the case rectifiers lose 1.4 volt on each coil so losing at least 6 volts before even getting power for the motor ????). if my figures are wrong im sorry but im sure someone on here will know. but even so rectifiers lose you power.
so is it possible to wire it up in such a way that all coils goto one (1) rectifier then to motor so only losing say 1.4 volts instead of 6 volts.
this motor needs more amps cos this is where i could not increase to drive motor alone without battery.
hendo1944: keep up the good work. let us know how you get on . i for one will be very interested.
i have given up on this one for now, but if someone can get it to work without batterys or caps then i will start again.
sorry for the long post.
Dave.
Hendo1944
View some of my projects at: http://au.youtube.com/hendojohn
|
| dave1966 |
Posted - 24/01/2009 : 5:35:07 PM
Hi Guys
I have been working on the above project for some time now. but i have NOT been able to get it to self power at all. it allways needs a battery of some sort in line. the longest i could get it to work was for just under one week using it with 1.4 volt watch battery. with a larger battery it would run for many many months. sorry i have no pictures of it.
i have sort of given up on it really.
hendo1944,....I just noticed that with your replication that your relay coils still have the metal plate that runs up the side....i found it works alot better if you take them off, because it still getting attracted with the magnets. its a very small amount i know but its still extra drag that this motor cant cope with.
when i took that metal plate off i was able to use little 10mm x 0.5mm neo disk magnets i could then produce more voltage but amps seemed not to increase (i used a dremal to remove the metal from relays. but go easy if u try this dont get it to hot lol.)
Just a Question:
Can this be wired up WITHOUT a bridge rectifier on each coil. because if im right in thinking that bridge recifiers lose voltage from the coil in the process of converting to DC voltage. (is it 0.7 volt per diode? if thats the case rectifiers lose 1.4 volt on each coil so losing at least 6 volts before even getting power for the motor ????). if my figures are wrong im sorry but im sure someone on here will know. but even so rectifiers lose you power.
so is it possible to wire it up in such a way that all coils goto one (1) rectifier then to motor so only losing say 1.4 volts instead of 6 volts.
this motor needs more amps cos this is where i could not increase to drive motor alone without battery.
hendo1944: keep up the good work. let us know how you get on . i for one will be very interested.
i have given up on this one for now, but if someone can get it to work without batterys or caps then i will start again.
sorry for the long post.
Dave. |
| JustAnElectrician |
Posted - 24/01/2009 : 1:18:05 PM
quote:
Originally posted by rgbargee
has anyone on the forum had a go at a rotoverter , was thinking it would make a nice efficient primary mover for the self running generator, they seem to need quite low current once running
That is very compelling, "electricians*" have done this for years on a
partial basis, we know of running 3 phase motors on single phase sources
but the reduced current and OU implications are exciting!
I once did an "ADD-A-PHASE" style transformer hookup so a factory rep
could do his testing, and what did it get me? LAID OFF because I had
made my foreman look bad by being a young hot-shot (more than once  )
SEE UPDATED PICTURE 3 posts above, Y'all!
...just an Electrician! Since 1985... |
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